My Days in the Land of Wine and Rosa - by Rose Palmer

Cruising the Historic Canal du Garonne

The Canal du Garonne was built in 1838 as a more dependable alternative to the Garonne River, whose flow tended to be erratic. Starting in Toulouse, the Canal du Garonne connects the route started by the Canal du Midi in the Mediterranean and extends it to the Atlantic. This pathway was once an important transport passage that bypassed Spain and Gibraltar, bringing goods to market from one coast to the other much more quickly. But like other canals in France, the Canal du Garonne and the connected greenway are now used only for recreational purposes. 

Extending from Toulouse to the southern edge of Bordeaux, Gascony is bordered by the Garonne River on one side and the Atlantic on the other. The alluvial plains around the Garone River have formed the perfect rich environment for growing vast fields of wheat, corn, sunflowers, and fruit trees, all of which we passed along our cruise. And because this is France, hillsides at higher elevations were planted with grapevines, producing unique wines and the much-beloved spirit of the region, Armagnac. 

Life Aboard Rosa

For me, the curvy, graceful lines of hotel barge Rosa complemented the bucolic scenery we passed through. The saloon was intimate and warm with the feel of a vintage French bastide, or manor house. The seating was perfect for small group conversations, while the dining table comfortably seated our group of six. My favorite space, though, was the outdoor sun deck, where I spent most of my time when we were cruising. 

The relaxed rhythm of my days on the Rosa was a perfect match for the slow flow of the canal. After a leisurely breakfast, our guide took us on an excursion, driving a short distance to a variety of interesting sights along our route. We were back on the barge in time for a gourmet lunch prepared by our exceptional on-board chef. Then it was time for a leisurely afternoon cruise to our next mooring spot, where a stretch-of-the-legs helped build our appetite for an even more gourmet dinner. We ended the day with drinks on deck as the sun went down. This was the ideal mix of activity and relaxation. 

Exploring Gascony's History and Culture

It’s hard to choose which part of the week was best. The food was superb, the crew was attentive, and the excursions varied and interesting. Each outing was unique and gave us a taste of the region’s history, culture, and gastronomy.   

A Private Tour of Château de Lamotte-Bardigues

A visit to the 18th-century Château de Lamotte-Bardigues, with a private tour by the resident Countess, was fascinating. Not normally open to the public, our tour of this grand house was both educational and entertaining. Trained as an actress, Countess Caroline wove a spellbinding tale of her family’s ancestors and their liaisons, intrigues, and prominent roles throughout French history.  

Discovering the UNESCO Abbey of Moissac

Equally fascinating was the private guided tour of the UNESCO-listed 7th-century Abbaye St-Pierre de Moissac. The cloister was especially memorable. Completed in 1100 ACE, the 76 intricately carved capitals are some of the best-preserved in the world. As a stop on the Camino de Santiago, the Abbey’s carvings were especially meaningful for pilgrims passing through. 

A Taste of Gascony's Gastronomy

Another fun excursion was market day with our chef as we went shopping for ingredients for that day’s meals. The colorful, perfectly ripe, in-season produce was extremely tempting. We bought three varieties of strawberries, and it was surprising how different each one tasted. The cheese stalls with their myriad choices, and the freshly baked bread stall were also stops on our tour, as was the fishmonger and the meat seller. 

Cycling Along the Canal du Garonne

I love the relaxed, slow cruising experience, but the canal and its tow paths were also perfect for biking alongside the barge. With frequent locks, it was easy to choose how long a bike ride I was in the mood for. Whether it was 500 meters or 6 kilometers, I could easily get off the boat and then get back on when I got tired. And since the towpath was level, paved, and shaded, the bike ride was extremely pleasant. By biking a little each day, I could fool myself into believing that I was working off some of the delicious food calories.

The People Who Made the Journey Special

As wonderful as the sights and food were on the Rosa, it was the people I shared it with that made it truly memorable. The other guests were kindred spirits who were a pleasure to get to know and spend time with. And the crew was outstanding, going out of their way to make the experience special for each one of us. We all felt like family while on the boat, and the crew welcomed us warmly into their fold. With so much laughter and joking all week, it was impossible not to feel happy. 

Like Ernest Dawson’s poem, my days of wine on the Rosa were sweet but brief. The path along the Garone Canal took me to previously undiscovered places, and my perfect week of indulgence is now but a pleasant dream. 

Ready to Experience Gascony for Yourself?

Many thanks to guest contributor Rose Palmer for sharing her experience aboard hotel barge Rosa and her journey through the heart of Gascony.

If you’d like to experience a luxury barge cruise in France for yourself, Contact Us today. We’d love to help you plan an unforgettable journey through France’s canals, where exceptional cuisine, fine wines, and timeless landscapes await.