A Slow Cruise Through Southern France: Exploring the Canal du Midi Aboard Anjodi

A letter to friends by Lisa Thompson

The Canal du Midi is a waterway that wiggles through 270 miles from the Atlantic near Bordeaux to the Étang de Thaulagoon by Marseillan, and spills out into the Mediterranean Sea. This waterway was built, starting in 1666 to transport goods more efficiently than sailing it around the Iberian Peninsula and through the Strait of Gibraltar. It is the oldest canal in France still used today and is a spectacular feat of engineering. It travels some of the prettiest countryside of France.

Fellow cruisers, Rusty and Michele have been our dear friends for decades, and we hadn’t seen them in two years. Needless to say, I was very excited to spend some time with them. It was raining when we picked them up at the Narbonne train station on Friday evening, jumping with joy.

Saturday, the six of us climbed aboard our barge on the canal, greeted by the crew with glasses of bubbly champagne and welcoming smiles. Our barge is named Anjodi. She is 98.5 feet long and was built in 1929. She is luxurious, sturdy, and quiet.

Our Captain, Laurent has been driving barges for 20+ years. Handsome, witty, nimble, and most importantly, capable.  Laurent’s crew consists of chef, Erell, tour guide  Valerie, and two hosts, Ula and Andrea.

I’ll tell you something. I was a little bit wary about the trip. I’m used to solving problems, making plans, picking restaurants, and moving a lot, either on my own two feet or from town to town. One whole week on a slow boat sounded like it might get a little boring. So, I got myself a good book and planned to just go with the flow (ha).

Valerie kept us busy however, trips to old cities (Carcassonne, Pézenas), to a beautiful Abbey (Fontfroide Abbey), olive and truffle tasting at a sweet little farm in Argeliers (Le Mas d’Antonon), wine tasting in Languedoc (Chateau de Paraza) and vermouth tasting in Marseillan (Noilly Prat), giving us history and stories and translating when needed.

Erell kept us well fed. She is Michelin trained, and even with a kitchen that was only about 30 square feet, she turned out spectacular fresh beautiful dishes for the six of us. I did not know that I liked duck. I did not know how much I liked oysters and muscles. The fish was so light and fresh. I ate just about everything she put in front of me. Except for the snails. Not doing that.

Ula and Andrea kept us supplied with beverages and snacks and spiffed up our rooms every time we gave them a chance. These two women were delightful and engaging and smart.

Between all our outings, we cruised the canal. Under enormous Plane trees, past vineyards and little villages. Near Béziers, we came to the Fonserannes Locks. It is a series of seven locks that we descended, lowering us 71 feet in a distance of 980 feet. The canal then allows the boats to cross above the River Orb.

Twice during the week, Michele, Bruce and I played scrabble. It’s been a long time since I laughed so hard, I cried. Once during the week, I got in the hot tub with Rusty and Bruce. I made them shut their eyes when I got in (I am guessing what you are thinking and yes, I was wearing my bathing suit, I’m just a long way from 30, or 40, or shit, even 50!)

Twice I was able to go on a walk… once with Nancy when we jumped off and walked to the next lock about 5 miles away, and again after Laurent drove Michele and Rusty and me to the beach, were we put our feet into the Mediterranean and I walked back. It’s springtime now, wildflowers are blooming, the red poppies in full glory. It was a little breezy but that just made the trees dance over my head under a sunny sky.

The canal ends when it spills into the lagoon Étang de Thau and from there the water flows to the Mediterranean. There was no wind at all, and the weather was warm so we were able to cruise about the large lagoon and see the miles of oyster beds before docking at Marseillan and go exploring.

Our last night on the boat, Laurent joined us for dinner. Lobster (yum) and champagne and lively conversation. It is apparent that this crew enjoys their careers and each other, and we felt they enjoyed our company as well. It’s going to be tough eating normal food again. I did love every bit of the trip and only made it through about 2 chapters of my book. That’s a good sign. No boredom at all. I even got to steer the boat a little way. It’s not that easy. It’s a big boat.

Follow in Lisa's footsteps aboard hotel barge Anjodi

If you’ve been inspired by Lisa’s words and would like to experience our luxury barge cruises aboard Anjodi for yourself, why not speak to a friendly member of the European Waterways cruise team. Alternatively, order a brochure to consider all of our cruise options!