English
Spanish
French
German
Norwegian
Portuguese
Swedish
Italian
Russian
Simplified Chinese
Japanese
British travel writer Michael Edwards steps aboard the 12-passenger La Belle Epoque for his very first experience of a luxury barge cruise with European Waterways. Cruising through the heart of Burgundy on the Burgundy Canal, Michael discovers the charm of slow travel, the richness of French cuisine and wine, and the quiet magic of life on the waterways…
Sabres, Chablis & Château Life: A Barge Journey Through Burgundy
A Dramatic Ending to a Luxury Barge Cruise in Burgundy
Captain Craig with a dramatic “off with their heads!” sabre swipe, opened yet another bottle of champagne. It was a triumphant, theatrical opening to the six course Captain’s dinner, on the final evening, celebrating a luxurious six night barge cruise along the Burgundy Canal.
From Paris to the Burgundy Canal: The Journey Begins
After a comfortable three hour minibus transfer from central Paris’ Hotel Westminster we had been welcomed aboard at rural Lézinnes, with canapés and champagne, for a slow travel cruise of less than 50 miles to Veneray-les-Laumes.
Far from the tourist crowds, La Belle Époque was the only vessel scheduled, that week, to be cruising through plane trees, grey herons and lock-keepers’ houses. Chugging along at around 5 kmph: past grazing Charolais cattle, hill-top churches and quiet rural villages. Slow enough to allow cyclists and walkers to get ahead for a lock or two.
A Culinary Celebration of Burgundy’s Finest Flavours
Above all, the cruise is a celebration of ‘the best of Burgundy’. From fresh bread, pastries and fruit for breakfast onwards, the gastronomy celebrates Burgundian cuisine. At lunch and dinner, the hostesses Ema and Luna introduce paired wines and a variety of cheeses. Whilst moored at Montbard, we call in at the morning market to see the cheesemonger’s full range.
For wine aficionados, a tasting visit concluding with a majestic grand cru, to the limestone sprinkled rolling hills of Chablis’ 10,000 acres of precious vines, is wine heaven. As we stand in a wine cellar that dates from the 9th century, our guide Regis, sums up the industry: “We are gamblers. We gamble with frosts, hail and disease.” But the Chablis creators are innovators too: with windmills wafting warm air through the valleys, sprinkling barrels with seaweed powder to sink sediment, abandoning corks for screw tops.
Uncovering Hidden Gems: Châteaux, Vineyards and Medieval Treasures
Tourists are rare in this quiet corner of France. Captain Craig, born in England but resident in France for over three decades, is able to guide us around the grandeur of châteaux at Ancy-le-Franc and Commarin without interruption. He shows how at Ancy, both architecture and interior design, from the placement of heraldic shields and weaponry, illustrate the owner’s desire to assert power and status whilst also assuring the king of allegiance. Additionally, at Commarin, a falconry display, recalls the skills of this medieval art.
For most guests, the highlight of the daily excursions, is a tour of the champagne vineyards and winery of the Maison Taisne Riocour. In an appellation, where an acre of land can cost €1 million, teams of lawyers protect the champagne brand name. Then we head to the chateau for lunch, using silver cutlery topped with family’s coat of arms, hosted by the Baron and Baroness of the Château de Ricey-Bas.
Over the welcome of caviar canapés and champagne, they tell stories of how Charles’ grandfather’s family rang a bell to invite village children to play with him in the chateau’s extensive grounds. Consequently, when Nazi forces approached, local people helped the much-loved family hide the chateau’s artefacts throughout the village.
Our final visit was to the serene peace of the Abbaye de Fontenay, where a millennium ago, Cistercian monks, allowed to speak for just two hours per week, aimed to restore chastity, charity and silence to worship. In a simple abbey, they lay on the cold gravel to pray. It was an austere life, sleeping on hay beds in a communal dormitory without a fire, breaking ice to fish in winter. Yet, their invention developed the world’s first hydraulic hammer, playing a key role in France’s Industrial Revolution.
An Elegant Farewell: Champagne Wishes and Lasting Memories
Back on board, Ema pours grand cru Chablis to accompany our last dinner. A banquet in the style of a lavish Burgundian family meal: scallops carpaccio, French onion soup, champagne and lemon sorbet, Charolais steak, one last cheeseboard and the chef’s stunningly original take on mille feuille.
Offering flowers from the display, Craig invites us to throw a flower into the canal and make a wish. Could anyone wish for anything more than taking another European Waterways barge cruise?
