Guest Post: Exploring Northern Burgundy with European Waterways

Much has been written about the relaxing and pampering experiences aboard a European Waterways luxury barge cruise. From the friendly and attentive service to the gourmet cuisine, and from the refreshing al fresco spa pool to the munificently stocked open bar, virtually every moment onboard is one to savor.

The focus of this blog post, therefore, is not on passengers’ time spent onboard, but rather the daily excursions into the heartland of Burgundy, one of France’s most interesting regions. As much as one can enjoy the scenery from the deck while cruising the picturesque Burgundy Canal, there is nothing like going ashore and getting up close and personal with the attractions of Bourgogne.

Before we delve into the day-by-day La Belle Epoque excursion Itinerary, I would like to recommend a mini-excursion that is often overlooked: the daily bakery run with the captain. Every morning, bright and early, Captain Craig drives to a boulangerie near where the barge was moored for night to pick up fresh baguettes, croissants and sweet rolls for breakfast. Anyone wishing to join in will be rewarded not only with a glimpse into local rural life – and intoxicating sights and smells of freshly baked bread – but also a special treat: an extra sweet treat chosen from the tantalizing display of assorted French pastries.

Our first full day of cruising featured a visit to Château de Commarin, a fairy tale-worthy 13th century palace, complete with water-filled moat. Our guided visit to the inside of the château, conducted by the knowledgeable Captain Craig, was memorable for the insights gleaned from the palace’s kitchen and furniture into life among the nobility stretching back hundreds of years. His explanations even included some startling revelations that put events of the French revolution into a whole new perspective.

And yet, surprisingly enough, the main attraction of this visit was not even the palace building or its perfectly manicured grounds. Rather, on the vast lawns of the château, guests of European Waterways’ luxury barges La Belle Epoque and L’Impressionniste were treated to an exciting private demonstration of the medieval sport of falconry. During the course of the show, several intriguing species of regal birds of prey fly at amazing speeds around the premises, snatching barely visible morsels of bait from the fingers of the handlers. At times, the birds come within inches of spectators – and anyone wishing a close encounter with a winged performer may volunteer to have one perch on his/her arm.

Day three of the overall cruise is more sedate, but no less fascinating: a visit to the 12th-century Abbaye de Fontenay, so distinctive that it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The abbey is remarkable on several counts: its austere, imposing Cistercian architecture is true splendor – and it is also the unlikely birthplace of Europe’s industrial revolution: the monastery’s forge was the continent’s first metallurgical factory, as well as the first place to use a hydraulic hammer, which is still operational after 800 years.

Following the tour of the eye-opening forge, the stunning cloister and the cavernous dormitory, a leisurely stroll of the beautiful grounds, dotted with ponds and well-tended gardens, is just the dose of tranquil nature the doctor ordered.

The following day is the only time La Belle Epoque passengers dine in another venue besides the barge – at the Château de Ricey-Bas, home of the Baron and Baroness Taisne Riocour, who are also the proprietors of Maison Taisne Riocour, the adjacent champagne house whose production facilities guests will tour before lunch. Following tastings of the sublime bubbly, a delicious repast is served in the residence, with the Baroness herself as the gracious hostess.

Tea is served in the garden after lunch, closing out a most relaxing afternoon spent in good company.

The next – and last – château that passengers visit comes on Day 5 of the cruise: Château d’Ancy-le-Franc, a 16th-century palace that is a masterpiece of symmetry. But the real treasure lies inside: France’s largest collection of Renaissance murals. Art and history lovers alike could spend hours admiring these magnificent works of art, not to mention the gorgeous gardens surrounding the edifice.

Finally, we come to the day wine lovers will cherish forever: a visit to the city of Chablis, whose eponymous white wines are savored by connoisseurs the world over. Here we learn about the cultivation of the terroir’s chardonnay grapes, tour the 1,000 year-old monastery cellars and conclude our visit with tastings of the appellation d’origine contrôlée wine originating from the most exclusive plots of land hugging the banks of the river.

Just as on board La Belle Epoque, the shore excursions – led and hosted by the ever-affable Captain Craig – are additional evidence of European Waterways’ commitment to excellence.