Into the Hidden Heart of France ~ A Journey on L'Art de Vivre

There’s a moment, somewhere between the hum of Paris traffic fading behind you and the first sight of a sleepy Burgundy canal, when you realize you’re about to step into another rhythm entirely. This isn’t just a barge cruise—it’s a love letter to La France Profonde, the “deep France” where time slows and you enter a hidden world.

Your journey begins in comfort, whisked away from Paris in a private chauffeured minibus. As the motorway shifts to country lanes, you are greeted by rolling hills, lovely stone cottages, and a feeling of quiet anticipation. When the hotel barge L’Art de Vivre comes into view—sleek, intimate, and beautifully appointed—it’s hard not to fall instantly under her spell. The crew greets you with a glass of Champagne, to toast with you to the days ahead and your opportunity to discover the Hidden Heart of France via this bespoke itinerary.

Cruising the hidden heart of France aboard L'Art de Vivre

Cruising the “Little Amazon”

The Canal du Nivernais is no ordinary waterway. Some call it “the prettiest canal in France,” but even that doesn’t quite capture its wild charm. Here, nature leans in close—branches arch over the canal, filtering the sunlight into dappled green patterns. Some stretches are so lush they’ve earned the nickname La Petite Amazonie—the Little Amazon.

A few cyclists and walkers pass on the towpath, while white Charolais cattle graze peacefully in the distance. Occasionally, the canal narrows into a tunnel or rises in a dizzying series of locks—one of which, a grand staircase of sixteen, is said to be among the most beautiful engineering feats in Burgundy. Each lockhouse you pass seems to tell a story: ivy-clad, flower-boxed, sometimes home to a craftsman or artist who may invite you in to browse their work while the barge gently ascends.

The 8 passenger L’Art de Vivre is uniquely suited to this intimate waterway. Her smaller size lets her slip through tunnels and over aqueducts that larger vessels can only dream of. Cruising here feels like exploring a hidden path known only to a few lucky wanderers.

The Little Amazon of Burgundy, the Nivernais canal.

L'Art de Vivre meanders through the heart of hidden France in Burgundy.

Time Travel in Stone and Vine

Time stands still when you visit the fortified town of Avallon, perched dramatically above the Cousin Valley. You’ll walk along its medieval ramparts, meander cobbled lanes as they twist between stone houses and visit the12th-century Church of Saint-Lazare, with its intricate Romanesque carvings.

On another day, deep in the Morvan forest, you’ll discover the “lost” Roman city of Compierre—a ghostly collection of foundations, streets, and a temple that once bustled with life nearly two thousand years ago. You can still trace the outlines of shops and homes, and really feel that people once lived here even if time has almost erased the details.

Then comes Vézelay. Perched on its hilltop, it’s one of those places that feels larger than life. Pilgrims once began their long walk to Santiago from here, and the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene still holds that weight of history. Outside, you can wander through narrow lanes lined with art galleries and wine shops or just stand at the ramparts looking out over the patchwork of vineyards below.

The hilltop town of Vezelay hidden away in the heart of France.

Chablis: Wine, History, and a Secret Lunch with the Monks

A visit to Burgundy without tasting its wines would be unthinkable, and so a visit to the celebrated village of Chablis is a must. From a viewpoint overlooking the Grand Cru vineyards, your guide explains what makes Chablis famous for its minerality. Then its time to descend into the village for a tasting.

At Domaine Laroche, you are welcomed into the thousand-year-old Obédiencerie, once part of a monastery where medieval monks perfected the art of winemaking. After a tasting or Premier and Grand Crus, you’ll sit down to a private lunch in the monks’ former refectory. It’s the kind of experience that stays with you because it feels unforced, genuine.

Chablis is a must visit in the heart of France.

Of Châteaux and Charms

When on board, the days blend into a rhythm of gentle cruising, delicious meals, and unhurried exploration. One morning brings you to the elegant Château de Bazoches, a 12th-century stronghold that later became home to Vauban, Louis XIV’s master military engineer. Inside, you’ll wander through paneled salons showcasing antique maps and armor, with a chance to meet the current custodian, the latest in an unbroken line of 28 generations of Vauban’s descendants to occupy the chateau.. From the terrace, the view of the rolling green of the Morvan hills stretches out in every direction.

Evenings are unhurried. Sometimes you are moored beside a tiny village, sometimes in the middle of nowhere. The onboard chef prepares dinner with whatever local ingredients were sourced that day — local meats, cheese from a nearby farm, and seasonal fruits and vegetables. You might find yourself lingering over food and conversation as the light drains from the day, the unhurried rhythm that defines this hidden France.

Gourmet meals prepared by the onboard chef

The Final Passage

The last day brings one final adventure, a passage through the three tunnels of La Collancelle, and to the final mooring at Baye. The day closes with a farewell dinner on deck and a raised glass to L’Art de Vivre. This elegant little vessel that was home away from home for a week, cruised not just along the Canal du Nivernais, but through layers of history, nature, and time itself.

This journey through La France Profonde isn’t just a cruise. It’s a discovery of a very special part of France. A hidden part of antiquity, of beauty, of life lived at the gentle pace of a barge gliding through water—an art de vivre, indeed. See the full itinerary here.

Contact Us for more information and discover for yourself the hidden heart of France.

Slow travel in luxury aboard L'Art de Vivre on the Nivernais Canal

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